1The coils are as long as med from 16 AWG (1.3 mm diameter) tinned copper wire. Each coi

1The coils are as long as med from 16 AWG (1.3 mm diameter) tinned copper wire. Each coi www.phwiki.com

1The coils are as long as med from 16 AWG (1.3 mm diameter) tinned copper wire. Each coi

Haro, Juaquin, Morning On-Air Personality has reference to this Academic Journal, PHwiki organized this Journal 1The coils are as long as med from 16 AWG (1.3 mm diameter) tinned copper wire. Each coil has 2 bridge-overs Bumpsaway from the surface of the cylinder to cross the neighboring coil with a minimum of capacitance.Each coil has an associated board as long as tuning/matching components, a 32 MHz preamp (C13 at 3 T), Q-spoiling circuitry, a proton trap, in addition to connectors as long as RF-out in addition to as long as 12 V & gnd. A separate board folds around the circumference at the cylinder base in addition to holds mating power connectors as long as distributing power to each board.23We’ll use 3 jigs, in consecutive steps, to as long as m the necessary wire bends as long as each coil:Jig 1Jig 3Jig 2

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45After Jig 1 step:6After Jig 2 step:

7After Jig 3 step:8Starting with Jig 1, cut about 24” of 16 AWG wire. This will be plenty more than you need. You’ll cut to length in the last step:The idea is to use Jig 1, along with locking vise grips in addition to clamps, to make two planar bends (the bridgeovers) in the plane of the jig which is parallel to the floor. You don’t want to bend the wire up in the 3rd dimension it will work harden if you fiddle with it too much:There’s a feature in the shape of a pointer here.Put the middle of your wire about there.9Use locking vise grips to pull on the left end of the wire, while the far end of the jig has another vise gripclamping the wire:Make your first bend in the plane (no other jig fixtures should be on yet, so you’ll have room to bend the wire in the plane):

10Use a as long as mer (some piece of scrap material) to act as a pusher, so you can really bend around that corner tightly:Tip: your partner can pull on the wire to keep the far left end of the wire in tension.11Now add the 1st jig fixture (L-shaped with the toe of the L pointed towards the center of Jig 1). Tighten it with a screwdriver, making sure the bottom lip is flush against the body of the main jig.Then use a clamp to hold the 1st jig fixture on tight (as you’re going to apply a as long as ce against it, next).Apply the clamp so that you have room to keep the wire in the flat plane throughout the next bend.12This next bend is to pull the wire all the way around the 1st jig fixtue in the opposite direction from the previous bend. Keep the wire in tension in addition to use your as long as mer to make the bend tight around the 1st jig fixture.

13Now put in the 2nd jig fixure (it’s the longer of the two rectangles), tighen with a screwdriver such that the 2nd jig fixture’s lip abuts flush against the body of the main jig.Add another clamp. Again, mount the clamp so that you have room to make the next bend also in the flat plane:14Also apply tension to the wire be as long as e you start your bend. This next bend willbe back up in addition to to the left. Like this:15Use your as long as mer while your partner holds the wire taut.You’ve now made one bridge-over.

16Now start working on the 2nd bridge-over. First, do the bend up around the main jig’s top extrusion, just like you did be as long as e on the left. Use your as long as mer in addition to keep the wire in tension:17Screw in the 3rd jig fixture (it’s an L-shaped fixture with the toe of the L pointed towards the center of the jig):18 in addition to clamp that 3rd jig fixture tight:

19Bend the wire down around that 3rd jig fixture.Keep the wire in tension in addition to use your as long as mer to make the bend tight.20Now screw in the 4th jig fixture (it’s the shorter of the two rectangles):21Clamp the 4th jig fixture tight.

22Now your ready to bend around the 4th jig fixture:23Bend around the 4th jig fixture, with tension, in addition to using your as long as mer.24Almost done. But there’s one important thing to do be as long as e removing all the clamps

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25This little plastic piece is pointing to the spot on the wire, where you need to use a magic marker to make a mark on the wire.26Mark the wire.Remove the clamps. Now you’ve got 2 bridge-overs in the plane parallel to the floor.27Take the wire out in addition to mark all the way around the wire at that spot.

28This should be your result:29We’re going to as long as m a real 3D curve here, by the end of this 3-jig process. This Jig 2 is as long as bending the wire in the perpendicular plane to the plane of the bent wire.Place the wire so that the mark is at the apex of this oblong Jig 2.Important: orient the wire with the bridge-over in the vertical plane.30Adjust the locking vise grips in addition to clamp the wire onto this Jig 2.Note that because of the bridge-overs, you can’t pull on the wire to put it in tension (you’ll pull out your bridge-overs). Just use your as long as mer to make the bends you need.

61Close-up of the bridge-overs:

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